We decided to make an early get away from Rome on the Thursday so after a quick breakfast we were on the train. Again another lovely train ride through the thousands of lemon and olive groves. A very relaxing hour later we arrived in Napoli. Slight confusion as to where we were to get the train to Sorrento from, but after some help we found our way down to the platform just in time to catch the train. This hour wasn’t as pleasant a train ride but it was still a new experience. Bumpy, noisy and lots of stops!!
We arrived in Sorrento just after lunch and first impressions were that it was a cute little village on a cliff face. Matt reviewed the route to take us to our hostel and we set out on our way. We winded through small cobble streets, dodged some crazy scooter drivers and eventually found our way to the hostel. We knew from that short ten minute walk through the city centre that it was definitely a place we wanted to come back to!!
Our hostel was more like a hotel and a flash one at that. Trip Advisor had told us this, but you never know until you arrive. Marble foyer, plasma TV and a bar area were what we saw when we walked in. We checked in and went to the room. King Size twin bed, double cupboard and a massive bathroom, with stonking shower pressure!! Fantastico! We decided not to dwell on our new found comfort for too long so went to reception and asked for a lunch spot recommendation.
Made our way down to the seaside and stopped at this small cafe. Safe to say this recommendation was crap and we will let Trip Advisor know so soon. Following lunch we got out our map and traced a path up the cliff side back to the main Piazza. This took us about twenty minutes with lots of stops along the way to take pictures. We found the information centre and by chance realised at the back of this was a restaurant with a fantastic lookout area. Ocean as far as the eye can see, sun beaming down on us and little to no wind…and no-one else there!! We had to stay for a ‘Mezze Vino Rosso’ (1/2 Litre Red Wine). The rest of the day was taken up with pottering around the many boutique style shops and where ever possible taking pictures of the views.
We were absolutely stunned at how beautiful the views in Sorrento were, we had researched the place on the net, but until you actually see this place it is hard to comprehend. It definitely made us miss NZ, the sound of the waves lapping onto the shore was quite novel for us. We were made even more homesick when Matt started to compare it with the beauty of the ‘Milford Sounds’. Seriously the photos do not do it justice.
That night we took another recommendation from the front desk for dinner, but checked Trip Advisor too. La Tavernetta was the name of the place and it was mouth watering. The restaurant sent a free taxi to pick us up from our hotel and take us direct to the restaurant which was a nice surprise. We spent a lazy evening drinking fabulous wine and great food whilst doing a bit of people watching too. Due to the wine being soo good we decided to order a second bottle which kind of got us back in the early hours of the morning when we had to get up for the Easter procession at 3am! (More on that later).
On Friday we decided to do some more exploring and we decided that we would look into getting a scooter for Saturday as we really wanted to get the best out of the surrounding coastal area. We were in luck as it was a cheap £35 for a full day so we decided that yes we were going for a bike ride. We paid a deposit and organised to pick it up at 7pm that night. The rest of Friday was another lazy afternoon just chewing the fat and drinkin vino rosso till our bellies were full. We perused all our travel books and maps to see how we could maximise our time on the bike around the Amalfi Coast and planned out our routes. By this time…we were hungry again
We visited another restaurant called ‘Ristorante II Borgo’. We were expecting good things as this is number 3 on Trip Advisor. It wasn’t a complete let down, except we felt the food did fall short of what La Tavernetta had offered us the night before. Still we enjoyed ourselves and nothing could of detracted from our excitement of the impending bikeride.
Saturday we were up early for breakfast and then jumped on the bike and let the wind fly through our hair. We headed along the coastal road toward Positano, stopped off at Amalfi for lunch and then in the afternoon visted Marisa Cuomo vineyard based in Furoro (http://www.marisacuomo.com/ ). This is located 500 metres above sea level and is famous for the wine ‘Furore Fiorduva’. This was somewhat hard to find, but we eventually followed our nose and located an open door. It is run by a family of four and we happened to just bump into the owner who offered to take us for a small tour.
It was really interesting to see how they make wine over there. This particular vineyard had just picked up some new technology, from Sweden, where-by you drop a ml of wine into a machine and it populates the details of the wine onto your pc screen. Details such as acidity, PH value, alcohol content etc. This is very useful to the wine maker – but also is still viewed as a support mechanism. Taste from the wine maker is still the overriding factor as to whether a wine is ready for bottling. The barrels of wine are stored in a man made cave in the side of the hill. It had a state of the art air monitoring system built into it and was small by anyones standards. Check our blog out for some pictures of this. Also due to the landscape, that the vineyards are on, no machinery can be used to pick the grapes. It is also common to grow all types of grapes on the same vines. This means manual labour is used to pick all the grapes and then separate them into their respective colours. We were enthralled with the whole process and we felt it only appropriate to pick up a bottle to take back with us for our collection.
Following this we took the bike around to Rovella to check out the sea views as this is the place that the books all say to go to. I think the books were probably referring to those that didn’t have a scooter!! We had much better vantage points that we found just through guess work. After a thoroughly enjoyable day we took the inland road home and were very thankful for that. We missed all the traffic, forced police stops and saw another side of the coast that we’d never have had the chance to see if it wasn’t for the bike hire. We dropped the bike off at 7:00pm and almost felt like we had been away for about a week when we’d only had it for 24 hours. Bike hire is a must for anyone who goes to the area. We dropped into the hotel to have a freshen up then straight out to another restaurant recommended by a local. Another fabulous day in Sorrento.
Sunday was another day of much the same, we re-grouped our gear and did a full test pack to see how we could fit in our goodies that we had picked up and just managed to fit it all in. We decided on Sunday night to revisit La Tavernetta as it was that good the first time around. We were given great service again and got to try out the famous Argentinean chocolate board which Matt had eyed the locals eating the first time we went. It’s basically about 5kg of chopped up dark chocolate served on a chopping board. Yum! The owner of the restaurant went the extra mile this time around also. He sat with us after our meal and discussed our time in Sorrento over a free Limoncello. This topped off a really enjoyable time in the area.
The next morning we headed to the bus stop early in order to arrive within the check in time at the airport. Made it to the plane on time and landed in London just before peak hour traffic which allowed us to head home at a leisurely pace. All relaxed and ready for work the next day. Another amazing holiday over on this side of the world had.
A few extra bits of info on Sorrento’s Easter Processions below:
Over Easter Sorrento held two processions to celebrate it. On Good Friday were those of the Our Lady of Sorrows or of the “Visit in the sepulchres”, organised by the Venerable Arciconfraternita of Saint Monica and that of the Dead Christ, organised by the Venerable Arciconfraternita of the Death. The first procession took place at 3:30am on Holy Thursday and involved hundreds of participants dressed in hooded white gowns. The Madonna was carried aloft in the procession, and accompanied by several religious articles as she searches the town looking for her son. The procession started in the Corso Italia, turned through Piazza Tasso, and then visited each of the town’s churches – stopping in each one for a short ceremony. The Madonna was accompanied by aides carrying incense, and a large male choir and band. The second procession was at 8:30pm on Good Friday and reflected the Madonna’s mourning as she finds her son dead. Hundreds of participants, dressed this time in hooded black gowns, marched down the Corso Italia and then winded through the smaller laneways of Sorrento. We went to both and they were suitably spooky but were also very humbling at the same time. It definitely evoked emotion!! Again check out our photos as these will be going up in due course.
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